Helvti Diner, Zürich
Das ist es also, das beste Burger-Lokal in der Stadt. Das Helvti Diner, direkt neben der Sihl in einem ehemaligen Tramhäuschen untergebracht, war von Anfang an dabei, als Zürich den Burger entdeckte.
Das Helvti hat die Messlatte hoch gesetzt. Die Helvti-Burger haben jene spezifische Dekadenz, die einem Wärme und Wohligkeit ins Gesicht treibt. Der Saft des grob gehackten, aromatischen Fleisches, das heiss und dreckig (Selbstdeklaration) angebraten wird, übergeht fliessend in den angeschmolzenen reifen Cheddar. Das heisse, salzige Fett des Bacons gesellt sich dazu. Zusammen umschliessen die drei Freunde das karamelisierte Aussen des Fleisches und dringen – schneidet man den Burger auf – in dessen zartes Innern, dass es einem ein schlechtes Gewissen macht.
Okay, bevor die Schilderung allzu Rokoko wird, möchte ich noch ein paar Fakten aufschreiben, denn über die Burger selbst muss man im Prinzip nicht viel sagen, ausser dass sie exzellent sind.
Fakt Nummer 1: Das Helvti ist nicht ganz günstig. Pommes werden separat verrechnet (4.50) sowie Käse (3.00) oder Bacon (2.50). Klar, Burger in Züri sind häufig teuer und das Helvti gehört dabei nicht zu den teuersten (man beachte etwa den Brasserie Schiller Burger mit Hummerschwanz). Aber dass Gäste die essentiellen Beilagen separat berappen müssen ist ein bisschen unglücklich gelöst, finde ich. Etwas frech wird’s bei den Desserts, z.B. wenn ein Brownie mit Rahm knapp 10 Stutz kostet. Übrigens, der teuerst mögliche Hamburger im Helvti – der doppelte Wagyu Special mit Guacamole, Speck, Spiegelei und Käse – kostet genau 60 Franken, was natürlich schon fast wieder geil ist.
Fakt Nummer 2: Die Qualität schwankt. Ja, die Burger sind exzellent, aber es gibt sie, die schlechteren Tage des Kochs. Fairerweise nicht sehr häufig. Aber es kann vorkommen, dass der Koch gerade abgelenkt ist (vielleicht hört er den vielen amerikanischen Expats von der offenen Küche aus zu?) und darum statt deines geliebten „Mediums“ ein schades „Well Done“ brät.
Fakt Nummer 3: Das Helvti ist bisher der beste Ort für Burger in Zürich. Burger werden hier glorreich verstanden und mit nötigem Ernst zubereitet. Erst bei der Recherche dieses Artikels (als wäre ich ein Journalist!) fand ich heraus, dass Françoise Wicki die Mutter der Helvti-Burger ist. Frau Wicki ist Köchin im Restaurant Helvetia, wo sie aktuell 15 Gault Millau Punkte unterhält. Vor 10 Jahren erkochte sie sich im Hotel Drei Könige in Basel deren 16.
Beisst man in einen Swiss Prime, Classic Angus oder Wagyu Special Burger im Helvti, wird man darüber nicht erstaunt sein.
CH – 8004 Zürich
inch vor azat dostupum ka вот они, преимущества свободного доступа к базам данных ))) Кстати, это не по теме, байц ete karveor ban petk lini, vor@ anhasaneliya, lini da norutyun, terti hodvats te gitakan hodvats, обращайся, ну не на этот шутливый мейл конечно, а на arman1 в жж kamel dana-marroin harcra, ink@ kasi vonc
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